NYT - "Before Models Can Turn Around, Knockoffs Fly"

"Before Models Can Turn Around, Knockoffs Fly"

This New York Times article is one in a growing chorus of complaints from American designers that lower-end retail stores are copying their clothing. The Council of Fashion Designers of American (CFDA) is lobbying Congress to extend copyright protection to garments and individual designers are sueing stores, such as Forever 21, who they think have copied their clothing too closely.

I think the designers are being a bit ridiculous. I understand their indignance at being copied but do they think they're actually losing money? Do they think that the shopper who spent $25 on a dress at Forever 21 was actually going to buy the designer version for $250? Or $2500? The consumer base doesn't overlap - not even the other way around. A shopper who can and will pay $200 for a shirt doesn't want the cheap, low quality massed produced version for $20.

Now, I realize that the proliferation of knock-offs could potentially reduce the exclusivity factor. A boutique may carry only 5 of an item while Forever 21 carries 5000 so instead of being the only one on your block to have something, everyone on the train has it. I admit, that kind of sucks. But what would the designers have - 1% of the country looking like class and the rest looking like trash?*

If the CFDA and its designers want to recapture the market they will need a new business plan, a plan which a small handful of designers have already adopted: collaboration. Collaboration. Whether with Target, KMart, H&M or whomever, it can give shoppers the access to designers that they ultimately crave while still allowing designers credit for their work and some degree of control over the quantity that they put out in stores.

At this risk of sounding trite, this is the 21st century and the internet has changed the way consumers interact with producers. It changed the music business, and it will change the fashion business regardless of what designers do; however, if designers stopped whining about being copied they could make the internet and mass distribution work to their advantage.


*That line came from what song, by which artist (female group), popular around 1998/2000? Bonus points for album name.

The truth about Japanese fashion

Do you want to know the truth about Japanese fashion? Here it is:

Pantyhose are IN! in in in in in. Japanese women looooooove them some pantyhose. They wear it every day. Do they wear pants, or even stockings in the winter? No, skirts with pantyhose. When it's nice outside do they go without? Nope. Open-toe sandals, closed-toe shoes, it's all fair game. I have even seen a number of women wear hose with long pants and completely closed shoes! Why? As I can often be heard saying in Japanese, wakarimasen (I don't understand).

The funny thing is, when I wear pantyhose (a must at work) I truly feel like a Japanese woman - like I'm one of them. It's so universal here that I feel like I've tapped into something... that even though I'm so obviously Gaijin I'm just like everyone else on the train, coming home after a full day of work.
*****

Now if only I could maneuver in hose like Japanese women can. I've mastered riding my bicycle in work clothes and heels, but I tore my 2nd (of 3) specially imported pair of 'soft brown' hose on the pedal of a very nearby bicycle when parking my own the other day. So now I just need to learn the secret of 30s bicycle parking in a crowded lot while wearing pantyhose - before I'm out of 'soft brown'.

Americana

I was in Kichijoji earlier today, just chillin, ambling towards Tower Records when I happened upon a J. Crew. !!! I was so surprised and so pleased. Gap is all over Tokyo, and I've seen a couple of Banana Republics, but this was the first J. Crew. When I walked in it was like a breath of fresh air washed over me. I saw ribbed tank tops! Polo shirts! Twin sets! There were classic collared button-down shirts and madras prints galore.

Now, you're probably like, wtf Adelle - you're in Tokyo and you're that excited over J. Crew?

Well, let me tell you something. While Tokyo trends certainly are interesting, they certainly are not the be-all end-all of fashion. For one, within Tokyo, everyone dresses the same. There are about 4 or 5 uniforms that float around, with little-to-no variation on a given uniform.

• the above-the-knee 3/4 sleeve bubble-hem dress, worn with EITHER a long sleeve turtle neck underneath OR a long sleeve button up shirt trimmed with lace - most often up the placket - and a cropped collar; usually accompanied with knee high socks and embellished pumps or slouch boots and a long multi-strand bauble necklace.

• the tunic with leggings and slouch boots; underneath the tunic is the long sleeve turtleneck or the laced-trimmed, cropped collar, button up shirt; same bauble necklace.

• and the girls who look like whorish Barbie dolls. Lots of make up, super teased hair, short tight skirts, knee high socks, embellished heels, tight shirts; lots of lace and super-girly touches. In America people would assume you're walking the streets at nights; in Tokyo you're just going shopping with your friends - in the middle of the day.

Living in the midst of this, I do appreciate American fashion sensibilities. Less can indeed be more, a concept which seems altogether foreign in Tokyo. There is even a segment of American style that is immune to the runway. Browsing both J. Crew and Banana Republic today I realized that there are styles that American stores will continue to offer regardless of the trends. I'm not just talking about basics like ribbed tanks or cashmere sweater sets; or even the concept of preppy. American dressing is often clean, fresh; accented, but minimally adorned. Even on the runway - look at Calvin Klein, Michael Kors, Ralph Lauren. There is a consistent aesthetic - one reminiscent of preppy but that certainly goes beyond it - independent of international trends. When at times I become numb to the Tokyo uniforms, it is that independence and individuality of sorts that I find most refreshing.

Fashion Week at #606 Claire Fuchu

I just watched the final episode of Project Runway and I feel so inspired. I really liked Laura Bennet’s line, and a few pieces from Uli inspired me as well. Both of the women, Jeffrey and Michael had very distinct points of view. People tend to think of Jeffrey as the most innovative and in many respects he is, but every designer exhibited some innovative characteristics. The prints that Uli tends to use have an inventive spirit. I think Michael did very well infusing his fresh, urban aesthetic with the requirements of the challenges and his clothes always look cool; but the line he showed looks like merchandise that is already on the market, there is nothing inherently new.

When I first saw Laura’s line aired in the episode I thought ‘what great clothes, it’s too bad her aesthetic is for older women, I would love to wear her clothes designed for a twenty year old.’ But when I looked through the photos on Bravo’s website, I realized that she actually did design for younger people, and I think she is arguably one of the most innovative designers from the 3^rd season. I really respect that she had a theme in mind for her show. Although I would love to see her take on casual/sportswear, she does great things for dressy. Within the sphere of evening and cocktail dresses she mixed fun and classy and produced the kinds of clothes that you buy first and then find a place to wear them. While some of her pieces were very much for older women, a number of outfits were in fact, very young. As the judges mentioned, her clothes are ones that you buy and keep for life. A number of things she presented could be aged forwards or backwards with different accessories. Jewelry, bag, shoes, scarves; a number of things can transform an outfit. You can visit http://www.bravotv.com/Fashion_Forward/photos/laura/index.shtml?slideshow=pr3_laura&pic=1#picAnchor to see Laura’s show.

I loved a number of her outfits, but #9 (in the slideshow) was my absolute favorite. It is certainly a young outfit. The use of shorts for the cocktail hour is very now, and the gold cropped jacket with a gold chiffon bow and sash is beautiful. It is the classic, put-together look that Laura does so well, but in a very fresh way.

My second favorite was #3. This is a fabulous little black dress. A halter dress with an empire waist updates a classic look. The upright feathers at the empire waist are fun and flirty and the fringe at the hem adds more playfulness to the look.

#13 is a gorgeous piece that can be transitioned for many years. The black lace is timeless, but the deep-V is daring. The overall silhouette is exquisite and flattering without emphasizing one particular element so much that the piece gets stuck in a particular trend or decade. This is certainly a piece which is always beautiful, but whose age and mood can be influenced with accessories.

***
The winner of Project Runway, Jeffrey Sebelia, said in his exit interview that he would like to use his prize money to start a secondary line that would be available to a mass market. While I am generally not a fan of Jeffrey, I applaud his idea. Project Runway is great at unearthing design talent, but inspired designer clothes can be very difficult for regular people to come by. There are an incredible number of talented and inspired designers out there and I would certainly like to see more of them taking steps to mass produce, and to see more large retailers courting independent designers. Jeffrey’s idea is a good first step, and I hope more people in the industry agree and follow suit.